![]() The business flourished for over a year and half. Pambazos, the guajillo-drenched potato-and-chorizo sandwiches, are a specialty of Mexico City (where Fernando is from). It’s a rich, olive-colored life force that’s best delivered to your mouth scooped in the warm embrace of the restaurant’s freshly pressed, char-stippled golden corn tortillas.Ībout two years ago, Maria, Anay, Daniel, and his stepfather Fernando started a small catering business, making quesadillas and pambazos on a parillada, a portable gas- powered grill. Whether it’s smothering a pair of herbaceous epazote-scented tamales de ceniza, or sharing the plate across a chicken leg from a mole poblano, it is memorably nutty and creamy from pumpkin seeds, tart from tomatillos, grassy from cilantro and epazote, and loaded with the slow vegetal sting of jalapeño. ![]() ![]() Maybe it was making tamales, or rice, or the state’s iconic brick-red mole poblano, but Moso was known for Puebla’s other great mole-and she was expected to prepare it (meanwhile, the men butchered and buried the goats for barbacoa).Īt the Rogers Park restaurant Moso opened with her daughter Anay and her grandson, Daniel, it’s easy to see why. Whenever there was cause for celebration in her hometown of 1,000 or so in south central Puebla, every woman had a job to do. When it was party time in San Juan Pilcaya, Maria Moso was the village’s go-to for pipián verde.
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